Moussaka Brouhaha

Stop calling moussaka “Greek lasagna.” There’s no pasta, no marinara sauce, and cheese is minimal, at best. Moussaka, the national dish of Greece, is so much more than another miscellaneous casserole. Complex and distinctive, no one would ever confuse the two if they ever had a taste.

Tender eggplant supports the hearty and robustly seasoned protein in a red wine-infused sauce, featuring onions, garlic, and aromatic spices like cinnamon and nutmeg. My small twist on tradition here is to skip the meat, of course, and opt for earthy, naturally beefy Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms instead. The pièce de résistance is a velvety béchamel sauce, covering the whole dish like a plush, velvety blanket.

What Is Moussaka?

The history of moussaka is as rich and diverse as the layers of flavors in the dish itself. The roots of moussaka can be traced back to the Middle East, where it’s believed to have originated from the Arabic word “musaqqa’a,” meaning chilled or cooled, reflecting the dish’s early preparation methods.

As the culinary influence of the Middle East spread, moussaka found its way into the Mediterranean and Balkan regions, each culture incorporating its own unique twist on the dish. The earliest versions were likely simple combinations of layered vegetables and spices, reflecting the agricultural abundance of the region.

When moussaka arrived in Greece, it underwent a transformation that would become the blueprint for the beloved dish we know today. The Greek moussaka typically features layers of eggplant, minced meat (often lamb or beef), tomatoes, onions, and a creamy béchamel sauce. The dish is then baked and served hot, creating a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.

Natural Variations

The evolution of moussaka doesn’t stop there. As it traveled through various regions, each culture added its own distinctive touch.

  • In Turkey, moussaka might include zucchini alongside or instead of eggplant.
  • In the Middle East, chickpeas and additional vegetables might help stretch the meat filling.
  • In the Balkans, sliced potatoes run parallel with the eggplant for more defined, sizable layers.

What Makes A Great Moussaka?

The best moussaka strikes a balance across all strata, creating a dish that is both comforting and invigorating. The marker of success is when each bite captures the essence of Mediterranean cuisine, inviting you to savor each layer and appreciate the complexity of this iconic dish.

  • Tender, Hearty Protein: Meat is moot when you start with a base of crumbled tofu for substance and minced Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms for style. Freezing, thawing, and draining the tofu first is the secret to creating a texture eerily similar to ground meat. Umami shiitake mushrooms enhance that illusion with ample free glutamate that creates an unmistakable umami sensation. Even when finely minced, their thick, chewy, tender caps ensure that every mouthful has a completely satisfying bite.

  • Luscious Béchamel: One of the “mother sauces” of French cuisine made from a simple roux and seasoned with nutmeg, the some versions take it a step further by adding eggs for an even more decadent texture. Bypass all of that by simply using tahini and a pinch of sulfurous black salt instead.
  • Layered Perfection: Sliced eggplants are typically salted to draw out excess moisture and bitterness, before being added to the mix, but that shouldn’t be the end of the story. Taking an extra few minutes to then roast the vegetables does wonders to concentrate the flavor and unlock subtle sweetness through caramelization. That attention to detail also ensures cleaner layers that won’t water down the dish.

Tips For Success and Serving Suggestions

Making a layered casserole like this can be something of a production. Though it does take time and effort, it’s completely feasible when you break it down! Don’t forget how to fill your plate with flare when you’re ready to eat.

  • Patience is a virtue. If you can wait for the moussaka to cool, you’ll be able to get much cleaner slices with consistent layers. As you might have guessed from these photos, this is not a quality I possess. Even if you end up scooping it out piping hot with a spoon, I promise it will be delicious in any form.

  • Make ahead. Moussaka tastes even better the next day, after all the herbs and spices have had time to mingle, so feel free to bake it well in advance and reheat it before serving. It can be stored in the fridge for 6 to 7 days, or frozen for up to 6 months. Simply allow it to thaw to room temperature and reheat at 350 degrees for 15 – 20 minutes before enjoying.
  • Perfect pairings. While moussaka is a whole feast in and of itself, you can stretch the meal to feed more with a few simple side dishes. Top recommendations include sautéed greens, salad, bread, and tzatziki.

The popularity of moussaka has transcended cultural boundaries, becoming a beloved dish around the world. Its versatility allows for endless variations that blend elements from different culinary traditions. It’s about time we include Japanese inspiration into that mix, thoughout the unassailable powerhouse of tofu and shiitake mushrooms.

Today, moussaka stands as a testament to the interconnectedness of food cultures, showcasing how a dish can travel across borders, absorbing influences, and evolving into something uniquely delicious. With this latest evolution and many more sure to come, moussaka continues to be a symbol of shared culinary heritage and the joy of discovering new flavors through the ages.

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Have Your Cake Noodle And Eat It, Too

Jewish Christmas is by far my favorite of all the winter holidays. Though it may not be marked on the calendar as such, I’d argue that it’s every bit as legitimate as all the “national holidays” that social media loves to celebrate. Notably absent is the expectation of exchanging gifts, spending all day in the kitchen creating an elaborate meal, or time with the extended family with questionable political views. Quite the contrary; you’re fully expected to spend a good chunk of the day sitting in silence, enjoying the darkness of a movie theater, where you can (hopefully) avoid most people, then treat yourself to the finest American Chinese cuisine that your nearest hole in the wall takeout spot can provide.

Usually, I’ll have my order figured out long before the credits roll. Who am I kidding, I usually have my dinner game plan set before breakfast. The day can change and my mood may shift, but the craving remains the same. It seems like there are more people than ever seeking solitude at the movies, which means my social battery is still exhausted by that single outing. Returning to the safety of my home, I’m much happier to slip back in front of the stove to craft my own homage to Chinese takeout.

Moreover, for anyone that appreciates the art of crispy cake noodles, you’ll know that they’re best when eaten right away, making them a poor candidate for extended transport. For best results, you’ve gotta eat them right away, which means taking matters into your own hands. Luckily, that’s much easier than it may seem, thanks to the beloved air fryer.

What Are Cake Noodles?

Backing up a step, cake noodles may also be called noodle cakes, fried noodle cakes, or pan-fried noodle cakes, depending on the actual preparation and how literal the menu writer wants to be. They’re found in various permutations across numerous Asian cuisines, and have a notable following especially in Hawaii. Rather than a typical stir fry that creates charred chewy stands of individual noodles, the entire portion of noodles stays together in one large clump and is cooked to a crunchy finish. Any combination of protein and vegetables will then be cooked separately and plated right on top. The noodles begin to soften as the sauce they’re topped with begins to soak in, which makes them such an ephemeral, short-lived entree.

What Are The Best Type Of Noodles?

All noodles are beautiful, but if we’re talking about crispy cake noodles, wheat-based chow mein is the gold standard. Technically, any noodle can become a cake noodle, but very thick options like udon won’t become crispy all the way through, and gluten-free noodles may not stick together properly. There’s no harm in experimenting, though; even if you don’t make a cake noodle, you’ll still make something entirely delicious.

Why Use An Air Fryer?

We all know by now that air fryers are really just glorified countertop ovens, but that doesn’t make them any less convenient. In this case, their quick cooking capabilities and high temperatures create a perfect crunchy crust across your entire noodle cake, fully enclosed so there’s no temptation to stir and break them up. This preparation is especially well-suited to basket-style models for their round shape, popping perfectly circular noodle disks every time.

What makes cake noodles so special is their textural contrasts. Golden-brown, fried noodles, crispy and delicate on the outside yet tender on the inside, shine when plated with a savory medley of vegetables, succulent tofu, and a rich, flavorful sauce that coats every strand.

These little crispy marvels serve as a reminder of the simplicity and pleasure of Jewish Christmas. No need for complicated recipes, extravagant dishes, or expensive takeout – just a hearty, satisfying meal that warms the soul. It’s a culinary embrace that brings us comfort and joy during this quiet celebration. Even if you’re celebrating a more conventional Christmas this year, you might want to consider a round-two taking this approach the following day.

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Give The Gift of Tamales For Christmas

Christmastime in Texas means tamales.

From sunrise to sunset, the air is thick with the smell of masa wafting from open windows. Slowly but surely, the bundles stack up, two dozen, three dozen at a time, before plunging into the steamer or freezer to await their fates. Wrapped with care in corn husks and banana leaves, rather than paper and tinsel, each parcel truly is a gift to receive.

Tamale Traditions

Tamales aren’t just for Christmas, of course. Ancient Mesoamerican civilizations, including the Aztecs and Mayans, enjoyed tamales as a portable and convenient food source for sustenance during long journeys and battles. Anything and everything was fair game in terms of fillings, from meats and vegetables to sweets like fruits and honey.

When Spanish conquistadors arrived in the Americas in the 16th century, their mission to spread Christianity ensnared the humble tamale as a celebratory food. Already a staple of Mexican and Latin American cuisine, tamales have a unique way of symbolizing the spirit of togetherness and unity that defines the holiday season.

Crafting tamales is a labor of love, a communal affair that brings family and friends together. As generations gather in the kitchen, sharing stories and laughter while assembling each bundle one by one, much of their importance is about the actual assembly, rather than the end product alone.

Come For The Craft, Stay For The Feast

Naturally, we wouldn’t be here talking about tamales if it was just a fun arts and craft project. Eye-catching green masa makes a more festive impression than typical yellow cornmeal, especially when offset by equally vibrant salsa roja on top and a red meatless stuffing hidden inside. While I love a simple veggie tamale, often made with zucchini, corn, and all sorts of peppers, I wanted to bring a more substantial offering, that eats like a whole meal, to this dinner party.

Who needs meat when you have tender red beans adding ample amounts of plant-protein, infused with the crimson color of red beets, and amplified by the naturally meaty richness of Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms?

Roughly chopped caps and stems create the compelling illusion of ground beef, deeply umami and toothsome in a way that defies written descriptions. Somehow juicy, chewy, tender, and springy all at once, the thicker Koshin variety are unparalleled in their quality. If you splurge on just one thing this holiday season, make it the mushrooms.

Corn Husks vs. Banana Leaves

Corn husk-wrapped tamales are more commonly seen across Texas, as an easily accessible, affordable ingredient, also owing to their Mexican heritage. Banana leaves, on the other hand, are favored in some Central and South American regions. I’m not going to say that one is better than the other, but after finally finding frozen banana leaves at H-Mart, I can’t go back.

Ready to use right out of the package rather than waiting for them to soak, they’re quicker and easier to work with, large and accommodating for any amount of filling, flexible and less likely to tear, and most importantly, incredibly fragrant. Subtly floral, slightly fruity, and even reminiscent of freshly cut grass, it reminds me of pandan, if it was spoken at a whisper.

That said, the flavor imparted by banana leaves is quite gentle and won’t overwhelm the flavors of the dish. Instead, it complements and enhances the food, adding a touch of tropical freshness and a subtle layer of complexity. Banana leaves also retain more moisture, yielding the most succulent tamales I’ve ever had.

Cooking Options

Once you’ve decided on your wrapper, you have more choices left to make: What’s the best way to cook tamales?

  • Steaming is recommended, as a time-honored method that never fails. There’s more than one way to steam, however, which brings me to my favorite approach…
  • Pressure cooking gives you the same results as stove-top steaming, in a fraction of the time. Plus, it helps keep the kitchen cooler; an important consideration for balmy Texas weather.
  • Grilling is a great alternative, taking the party outside, and imparting a wonderful smoky flavor to the food.
  • Baking in the oven can work, in a pinch, but does create a firmer, drier texture. For best results, place the tamales in a baking dish alongside a ramekin of water, and wrap the whole thing tightly with foil to keep the steam inside.

Make-Ahead and Storage Tips

To ease the holiday hustle and bustle, you can make these tamales ahead of time. After they have cooled completely, store them in airtight containers in the refrigerator for up to three days. Alternatively, freeze them for longer storage, making sure to wrap each tamale individually before placing them in a freezer-safe bag or container. Reheat tamales by steaming or microwaving until heated through.

Making tamales to celebrate events big and small is a way of preserving Latin American and Mexican heritage, which has now become a Texan and overall American tradition, too. Though dressed up in the red and green trappings of Christmas, these tamales are for everyone. Full of warmth, love, and the gift of good taste, it doesn’t even matter that they happen to be vegan and gluten-free, too.

When you unwrap a tamale during your own holiday celebrations, whatever they may be, the experience is universal. Pass the tamales; share the joy.

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Beans Are The New Black Friday

Black Friday isn’t what it used to be.

I say that not with sadness or nostalgia, but a deep sense of relief. Holiday sales will forever persist, pushing everything from lawnmowers to lingerie, but the singular focus on one big shopping day has dispersed to encompass the entire interval from Thanksgiving to Christmas. Door busters are digital and shipping is free; why bother waking up early to fight the crowds? This tradition of dubious appeal from the onset is now fully obsolete. I don’t know about you, but I’m ready to redefine Black Friday.

Black beans are the antidote to Black Friday’s typical excess. Decidedly unglamorous, unassuming, and unpretentious, black beans won’t force you out of bed early or judge you for the previously night’s debauchery. Taking it a step further, braised black beans, gently stewed in velvety coconut milk and invigorating aromatics, speak of a wholly different sort of richness.

Rifling through the pantry and freezer, this combination of Southeast Asian staples spoke to me above the cacophony of typically autumnal herbs and spices. The fragrant, floral notes of makrut lime leaves and lemongrass share the spotlight, bolstered by the sharp undertone of ginger and jalapeno. Balanced by the natural sweetness of the coconut milk, it’s already so buttery that no additional oils need apply.

Take It Easy

For anyone else still weary from cooking marathons or hosting duties, I’ve got you. Just one step more complicated than a genuine dump dinner, you don’t even need to drain the cans of beans or dirty another dish. Go ahead, take other shortcuts like using pre-minced garlic or ginger paste; no one will be able to argue with the end results.

Serving Suggestions

Personally, I’m perfectly happy spooning these beans right into my mouth, straight out of the pot, while hovering over the stove. If you have more patience though, your time and effort will be rewarded when you round out this entree with proper sides. Ideally, add at least some come kind of starch to soak in all that savory potlikker.

  • Rice, be it basmati, jasmine, or any fluffy steamed long grain rice
  • Bread, thinly sliced and toasted
  • Stewed collard greens, meltingly tender
  • Arugula salad, for a subtly bitter contrast
  • Avocado, for a buttery bite of extra decadence

Alternately, switch up the prep to transform it into an entirely different dish.

  • Roughly mash to make them approximately the texture of refried beans, then use in tacos, burritos, tamales, enchiladas, etc
  • Add vegetable broth and serve as a soup, optionally pureeing some or all
  • Simmer rice right in the same saucepan to make one-pot beans and rice

Make It Your Own

There are no hard and fast rules here. Born out of convenience, this formula is ripe for adaptation. Almost everything is changeable, like…

  • Using chickpeas, white beans, or adzuki instead of black beans
  • Adding more or less garlic, ginger, and jalapeno, to taste
  • Switching up the seasonings with curry powder, chili powder, or lemon-pepper

Don’t Over-Think It

Black Friday can be a complicated mixture of emotions and memories, wants and needs, no matter what the reality of it is today. Black beans, however, should always be simple.

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Pearl-Clutching

“Love at first sight” strikes me as a concept only suited for works of fiction, but I do believe in inspiration at a glance. Perhaps that’s somewhat related?

First Generation by Frankie Gaw

Flipping through First Generation by Frankie Gaw, that’s all I could think of as every photo and word seemed to leap from the pages. A mixture of traditional and contemporary takes on Taiwanese cuisine, it speaks to me like a heartfelt love letter, not some quick fix compendium of semi-homemade meals. Crafted with such care, it’s about more than recipes. It’s about the people and places that make them so special, the memories attached to them that add more flavor than any spice or seasoning.

Grandma’s Pearl Meatballs

This isn’t a book review, mind you. I could never do proper justice to all this one has to offer. Instead, it’s my own response to such a fearless, passionate muse. Filled with poetic, immersive descriptions, you can easily picture the scene to experience the emotions, not just the flavors, behind every dish. That’s what really drew me to Grandma’s Pearl Meatballs, a humble yet visually stunning mixture of protein and grains. By coating the morsels in soaked rice before placing them in the steamer, you get a similar effect to a rice paper wrapper, but with more heft and nuance.

What Is Jade Pearl Rice?

The first thing I thought of was the lustrous, pearlescent jade bamboo rice in the pantry, which inspired a greener corresponding interior, too. This short grain rice is infused with bamboo extract, tinted light green by the chlorophyll. Some say it has a subtle vanilla taste, although your mileage (and perception) may vary. At least, it’s very pretty, providing excellent inspiration for an unconventional departure from the printed text.

Jade Pearl Meatballs

Naturally, the “meat” of these balls comes from white beans, bound lightly with white chia seeds to retain a moist, juicy, and soft interior. Cabbage is replaced with spinach for deeper emerald green hue, but the essential aromatics remain the same. It’s definitely not the recipe as intended, but the creamy and subtle bites are a delightful departure from the usual dumpling or meatball. They belong in their own category of deliciousness.

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There Goes My Gyro

Equal parts spectacle and street food, gyros are impossible to ignore. Spinning on a spit like a wind-up ballerina, glistening from the heat of an open flame, you may smell it before you see it, but the sight is positively mesmerizing.

The name itself comes from the Greek word meaning “turn” or “circle,” referring to this unique cooking method of continuous motion. Around and around it goes, edges caramelizing and crisping with each revolution. Periodically, as orders flow in, the pit master skillfully shaves paper-thin slices from the kebab, exposing the more tender meat within, beginning the process anew.

Make It Meatless

Before my fellow vegan and vegetarian friends recoil in horror, fear not: You can enjoy those same rich, highly seasoned prime cuts at home, without the meat, rotating spit, or perilous open flame.

Mushrooms Over Meat

Traditionally made from lamb, beef, chicken, or even pork, it’s a clear case where the actual protein in question is far less important than the herbs and spices involved. Especially when you layer in fresh vegetables and creamy tzaziki for serving, the entree could be made of pretty much anything. Enter: Sugimoto koshin shiitake mushrooms.

Renowned for their intense umami flavor, these mushrooms add a depth of taste to the gyro that’s hard to beat. Drying the shiitake mushrooms concentrates their flavor, resulting in a rich, savory, and remarkably meaty taste and texture. Koshin in particular are ideal for this application since they’re broad and flat, just like the delicate shavings of fresh gyro meat.

Serving Suggestions: Be Your Own Gyro

The beauty of the gyro lies in its versatility. Keep it simple or go all out; you won’t be disappointed even if you just go to town as is, no garnishes or accompaniments required.

  • Classic Greek Style: Layer the seasoned, air fried shiitake mushrooms in warm pita bread, accompanied by crisp lettuce, juicy tomatoes, sliced onions, and a generous drizzle of tangy tzatziki sauce. It’s a classic for a reason!
  • Gyro Bowl: Create a wholesome gyro bowl by arranging a bed of fluffy quinoa, rice, or couscous, topped with the shiitake mushrooms, cucumber ribbons, pickled red onions, and a dollop of hummus. A squeeze of lemon adds the perfect finishing touch.
  • Mediterranean Wrap: Swap the pita for a whole wheat tortilla or lavash and fill it with your favorite gyro ingredients, along with some roasted red peppers and olives for contrast.
  • Gryo Hummus: Layer tender shiitake gyro on top of creamy hummus and serve with pita chips or cut veggie crudites for an instant party starter.

Hella Halal

With its roots firmly planted in the Middle East, the protein in question has historically been halal, but that’s not always the case anymore. For the concerned eater, swapping the mystery meat for shiitake mushrooms is a foolproof approach to ensure you’re avoiding a meal that’s accidentally haram.

What’s more, Sugimoto shiitake in particular are certified kosher AND organic on top of that. When serving a diverse range of discerning eaters, it’s the ace up your sleeve for an incredible meal that everyone can enjoy.

Indulge your senses with plant-based gyros, made effortless in an air fryer for your busiest weeknights or more elaborate celebrations. They are, quite frankly, a vegan masterpiece, celebrating the rich history of the Greek gyros while showcasing the incredible flavor of shiitake mushrooms.

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