Chillingly Good Chili

Is there a more American dish than chili? While most people think of hotdogs and burgers as quintessentially patriotic foods, both have clearly established roots in other cultures. Records of the first pot of chili, on the other hand, can be traced back to what is now known as Texas in the early 1700s.

Like most classic comfort foods, there’s good reason why it’s survived and thrived through centuries of changing tastes: Affordable, versatile, and obviously, delicious, it hits all the high notes every time. For that same reason, I have a number of different chili recipes already. Like chocolate chip cookies, though, there’s always room for one more.

A Meatless Mix For Meat-Lovers

Chili con carne has long been the gold standard for chili aficionados. No beans, no fancy flourishes, just meat, meat, and more meat- Oh, and some chilies for good measure. Classic Americana. It’s interesting to see how my own approach has slowly skewed back to this more traditional approach.

Rather than a glorified vegetable stew, I’ve come to appreciate chili for being this simple, basic foundation to embellish after the fact, and only if warranted. It helps that there are better meat alternatives than ever, although that’s far from necessary to make an award-winning vegan chili recipe. In my opinion, the combination of old school TVP (Textured Vegetable Protein) and new school umami can run circles around pricey prepared beefy grounds.

Shiitake Stems Bring The Flavor

One of my favorite “life hacks” when using Sugimoto Shiitake is to save the stems for future use. Unlike most dried shiitake on the market, Sugimoto Shiitake are such high quality that even the stems are fully edible. Remove the very bottom part if hard, and the rest is packed with even more umami power than the caps. Finely minced, they transform into a compelling ground meat facsimile all on their own.

Hearty And Healthy

Thanks to the power of umami, it doesn’t scream “MUSHROOM CHILI,” despite being largely mushroom-based. In fact, it’s stunningly meaty, with a hearty texture that really could trick an omnivore. It makes me want to enter a chili contest just to see the stunned reactions when the recipe is unveiled.

Incredibly rich while also low in fat, balanced by the bright acidity of tomatoes, this is now my go-to for cold days, or tiring days, or days when the pantry is pretty bare. I could go on to list all the reasons why it’s the best vegan chili recipe around, but then I may never finish this post.

Spice Things Up

Chili is one of the most adaptable dishes around. You can make a basic batch that’s fairly mild, adding hot sauce to single servings as desired, or bring the heat in layers while cooking. Consider adding any of the following for more fire power:

  • Fresh or pickled jalapeños for a bright, fresh spice
  • Guajillo or chipotles in adobo for a more smoky flavor
  • Serrano, habanero, or pequin for a sharp, bold finish

That’s just the bare basics. Any chilies or peppers, whether fresh, dried, ground, canned, or otherwise preserved are welcome at this party! You could even just double down on the chili powder and call it a day. It’s only a matter of personal preference.

Chill Out With Chili

Chili is a quintessential staple for any cook to master. Thankfully, that’s not a difficult task. In minutes, anyone can meld aromatic spices into a complex bouquet that lingers on your palate, as warm as a happy memory. A great chili is an ideal one-pot meal, no garnishes needed, but versatile enough to be enjoyed with cornbread, rice, tortilla chips, or so much more. Is there a bad pairing for chili? Personally, I have yet to find out.

Continue reading “Chillingly Good Chili”

Im-Pressed with Oshizushi

50 years ago, sushi was an obscure, exotic oddity in the US. The mere concept of eating any sort of raw food, let alone uncooked proteins, had Americans running for the hills. Now, nigiri, sashimi, and maki are as commonplace as spaghetti and meatballs, and easily just as popular. Despite that infatuation, there’s a wide world of sushi that doesn’t get as much fanfare abroad.

Oshizushi, looking for all the world like an oversized sushi cake, offers a slice of Japanese heritage that’s poised to be the next big culinary craze that’s more than a passing trend.

What Is Oshizushi?

Literally translated as “pressed sushi,” oshizushi is a rectangular block of seasoned short grain rice layered with flavorful fillings, meticulously crafted in a wooden mold called oshibako. Unlike delicate, hand-formed nigiri, oshizushi comes together quickly thanks to this assembly line process. It boasts a slightly denser, satisfying texture – a testament to the pressing process that binds all the elements together.

Pressing Issues

Beautiful, even, and cohesive strata of tender grains, vegetables, and (traditionally) fish are the hallmark that immediately indicates a master’s work. This isn’t just about aesthetics, though. The act of pressing creates a unique interplay between rice and fillings. The flavors meld together, as the lightly vinegared rice mingles with the subtle sweetness of the protein, which is often gently cured or marinated. The pressure intensifies the umami throughout each bite, making oshizushi an experience that lingers on the palate long after the last bite.

Essential Additions

While there’s no wrong way to stack up your oshizushi, certain fillings get the nod for historical accuracy, harmony, and quite simply deliciousness. Customarily, oshizushi was prepared very simply, often with shiso and mackerel, trout, or salmon, served with soy sauce, wasabi, hot mustard, miso sauce, or pickled ginger. Contemporary approaches are more like modern futomaki, in the sense that anything goes. Tempura vegetables, shiitake mushrooms, watermelon ahi tuna, dairy-free cream cheese, sriracha; if you like it in sushi, you’ll like it here! Personally, my favorites always include thinly sliced cucumbers for that refreshing, crisp bite, and creamy avocados a touch of richness.

In this case, I was inspired by the rare appearance of plant-based seaweed-wrapped soy fillets, flavored and styled like imitation fish. As if that wasn’t opulent enough, a garnish of vegan fish roe elevated this humble food to all new heights. Naturally, you can use any protein you prefer, such as thinly sliced, marinated tofu or tempeh.

Sush-Easy

Consider oshizushi the quick fix for sushi cravings. Instead of painstakingly rolling each morsel, you can cut straight to the good stuff in no time at all. Sprinkle on furikake to get that essential nori flavoring without fussing with those delicate sheets, and dinner will be ready in no time.

Continue reading “Im-Pressed with Oshizushi”

Not Mincing Words

For those who know, the mere mention picadillo conjures up images of a warm, cozy kitchen, saucepan bubbling away on the stove, filling the whole house with the scent of simmering spices. Humble, hearty, and always comforting, it’s put protein at the center of the plate for centuries. Now, combining modern technology and culinary traditions, it’s time that picadillo goes plant-based.

What Is Picadillo?

Though often described as a beef hash, some might argue that it has more in common with American sloppy Joe’s or chili con carne. The word itself comes from the Spanish picar, or “to mince,” alluding to the roughly chopped meat. Ingredients vary wildly depending on who you ask, but common, unifying factors usually include some sort of tomatoes, onions, and peppers.

Picadillo Goes Vegan

While old-fashioned picadillo preparations are limited to beef and/or pork, there aren’t any constraints to the creative possibilities with plant-based alternatives. Staying true to the humility and lack of pretension in the original dish, I went with classic textured vegetable protein, also known as TVP or TSP (textured soy protein; same difference.) The problem is that by itself, TVP is incredibly bland.

That’s where Sugimoto Shiitake Powder comes into play! A small sprinkle adds incredible depth of savory flavor that tastes downright meaty, without any overt mushroom flavor. To up the ante, I love adding finely minced shiitake caps or stems, but this approach is perfect for picky eaters and mushroom haters. You get all of the umami, amplifying the inherent richness of the tomatoes, olives, and spices, with zero downsides.

This same trick works beautifully when using fresh or frozen vegan ground beef, too. Cooking it plain, straight out of the package might taste good, but adding some Sugimoto Shiitake Powder will make it great.

Regional Variations Of Picadillo

There’s no wrong way to make picadillo; it’s one of those dishes where everyone and their grandma makes it just a little bit differently. There are, however, distinctive styles found in specific regions:

  • Cuban picadillo, which I model my version after, is briny and rich, with capers, green olives, and sweet raisins for contrast.
  • Puerto Rican picadillo starts with sofrito as its base and is highly seasoned with adobo and sazon.
  • Mexican picadillo typically includes many more vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, and green peas.
  • Filipino picadillo has ample umami thanks to the inclusion of soy sauce and fish sauce, and is often more soupy or stew-like in consistency.

Plenty of overlap and fusion exists between each version. It’s a recipe ripe to mix and match, pick your favorite elements, and make your own!

Serving Suggestions

Prepping your picadillo is only the first of many delicious decisions. It’s an ideal entree for meal prep since its versatility lends it to myriad serving suggestions. A few of my favorites include:

  • Wrapped up in a burrito
  • On top of tacos or nachos
  • Sandwiched inside a torta or burger bun
  • Alongside rice, mashed potatoes, fried plantains, polenta, or pasta
  • Stuffed inside peppers, cabbage rolls, empanadas, croquettes, or frittatas

Don’t Rush The Process

When making picadillo, the most important ingredient is time. Slowly simmering, patiently, gently, allows all these seemingly disparate elements to meld into a harmonious whole. That’s not say it can’t be a quick fix meal, at least on the second time around. In fact, I prefer eating the leftovers, which keep brilliantly in the fridge for up to a week, or in the freezer for 4 to 6 months, becoming even more flavorful and balanced as they sit.

I’m not going to mince words here; this meatless picadillo is your new favorite meal waiting to happen, no matter how you serve it up.

Continue reading “Not Mincing Words”

Off The Butcher’s Block

Italians may have perfected and popularized pasta as we know it today, but they aren’t the only ones that know how to use their noodles. Boundaries that once defined traditional dishes are rapidly fading away, giving rise to bold, unexpected flavor innovations. One such marriage of culinary traditions is Pasta Alla El Chacinero, a vibrant twist on the beloved Italian classic, Pasta Alla Norcina. This Tex-Mex masterpiece seamlessly blends the rustic elegance of Umbrian pasta with the bold, robust flavors of Southwestern cuisine.

What Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero?

To better understand the inspiration, we need to talk about Pasta Alla Norcina. A lesser known specialty in the US, it’s an Umbrian treasure, not to be missed. Bringing together hearty pork sausage, fresh black truffles, and a rich cream sauce, it’s an ode to the sleepy mountain town of Norcia. “Norcina” also happens to be slang for “pork butcher” in Italian, emphasizing the importance of this meaty staple. Of course, if we’re going to change it up, why not start with plant-based meats?

Pasta Alla El Chacinero is my own crazy Frankenstein invention, bringing together these classic elements, reimagined through vegan ingredients and Mexican seasonings. “El Chacinero” means “butcher” in Spanish, to tie on to the original thread, starting with spicy chorizo and finely minced Sugimoto Shiitake mushroom stems instead. While most dried mushroom stems remain far to woody and fibrous even after a long soak, these are every bit as valuable as the caps. Ever since my early experiments, turning them into taco meat, I’ve been hooked on extending my meatless grounds with this umami superfood.

Amplifying that rich source of Glutamate, huitlacoche takes the place of black truffle, lending a complex, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor to the dish, with a hint of smokiness. Finally, rather than white wine, the pan is deglazed with a Mexican-style lager, for just a touch of brightness.

Simple Swaps

If you’ve already used up all your shiitake stems for another recipe, don’t worry. There are easy workarounds to get the same depth of flavors in your dish. Either…

  1. Omit the stems and use 12 ounces of plant-based chorizo. Add 2 teaspoons of Sugimoto shiitake powder for the same earthy, meaty, aromatic experience.
  2. Replace the stems with an equal amount (by weight) of whole Sugimoto Shiitake mushrooms. Either donko or koshin are excellent options here.

Tips For Success

Both humble and luxurious, it’s hard to mess up such a simple recipe. Essential steps to pay attention to for the very best results include:

  • Thoroughly browning the meatless mix. You want that subtle caramelization, those crisp edges, the toothsome, chewy finish it creates to lend greater nuance and textural contrast to the finished dish.
  • Sauteing the huitlacoche with the aromatics. Unlike truffles, this so-called “corn smut” won’t lose flavor when cooked, and in fact, benefits from some time on the heat. Straight out of the can as it’s typically sold in the US, it can have a harsh flavor that doesn’t immediately mesh well with the other ingredients.
  • Initially cooking the pasta just shy of al dente. If it’s fully cooked befor hitting the sauce, it’ll get overdone when mixed in and simmered again.
  • Reserving the pasta water. If you forget and dump it down the drain, leftover mushroom soaking water or vegetable broth is a nice substitute to add more flavor, but you really want that additional starch to bring the sauce together.

Why Is Pasta Alla El Chacinero Destined To Be Your New Favorite?

Beyond fideo, Mexican pasta dishes are traditionally few and far between. Most notably, all seem to rely heavily on tomatoes, which is nice in the summer, but a bummer for colder months. Lean into comfort with a dish lighter on produce, heavier on a decadently creamy, base and is infused with the slow-simmer essence of umami. That velvety sauce coats the pasta generously, the spices of meatless chorizo growing warmer and brighter with each bite. It’s a perfect one-pot dish that needs no additional sides or garnishes to be a wholly satisfying meal.

If you’re tired of standard bolognese or cream sauces, Sugimoto shiitake mushrooms stems are just what you need for a frugal, fun, and fresh twist on the usual noodle. Waste not, want not, and eat better. For a dish originally famous for its pork, it sure does well without any meat at all.

Continue reading “Off The Butcher’s Block”

A Balancing Act

Cooking, like life in general, is all about balance. Harmonizing contrasting flavors and textures are obvious and critical components, but there’s so much more to it than that. There’s also the balance between needs and wants; aversions and cravings; nutrition and comfort. Balance goes beyond what’s on the plate when you do it right.

Creamy walnut and roasted lemon pasta is my best example of balance at the moment. At a time when winter weather is prone to unpredictable
tantrums, farmers market hauls are pitiable, and inspiration is scant, this simple dish covers the full spectrum of demands and desires.

Elegance in Simplicity

Meyer lemons, naturally sweet, are roasted to lightly char the edges, adding a unique caramelized flavor to the sauce. Blended walnuts create the creamy base, their earthiness accentuating the toasted notes, and subtle bitterness bolstering the sourness of the citrus. From there, seasonings are minimal, emphasizing umami with nutritional yeast and miso paste, plus a touch of red pepper flakes for a bright finish. To round it all out, a handful of greens incorporates more freshness, while still cooking down to a soft, silky texture.

Don’t sweat the details. Campanelle pasta, those flourishing trumpet shapes, are my favorite here, but anything from rigatoni to bow ties will do. Meyer lemons aren’t the only sort that will work, if your choices for citrus are limited.

Better Balance

That’s the thing about balance; there’s no one way to achieve it. What’s more, it isn’t finite. You’re allowed to redefine what balance means to you. I just hope this recipe might help you find it like I did.

Continue reading “A Balancing Act”