Flipping The Script

Vegan eggnog is usually the first thing in my shopping cart come November 1st, remaining a steady line item on my grocery list until the supply runs dry. My head-to-head Nog-Offs are legendary, but this year, only disappointment was in store. With no new contenders in the ring, this fight was over before it began.

Instead, I’m flipping over a lighter, easier, quicker approach that anyone can mix up at home. Flip cocktails, a captivating twist largely forgotten to time, are long overdue for a plant-based revival.

What Is A Flip Cocktail?

First hitting the bar scene in the late 1690’s, a flip is a cocktail made with whipped whole egg, sugar, spirits or fortified wine, and garnished with nutmeg. Traditionally poured back and forth between two shakers to properly mix and froth, or “flip,” is how they got their name. They can be served hot or cold, and are now most commonly made with brandy (my personal favorite here), bourbon, or rum.

How Are Flips Different From Eggnog?

Reminiscent of the eggy richness that eggnog has made its calling card, flip cocktails are notably lighter, since they lack the dairy component often fulfilled by heavy cream. Eggnog is a tall, voluminous drink that sits like a meal, whereas a flip is a smaller tipple, better for pairing with food or snacks. If you want to leave room for Christmas cookies, this is what I call “balance,” at least when it comes to a holiday indulgence!

An Eggless Flip? Flip Yeah!

It seems counterintuitive to suggest revamping a cocktail that’s primarily based on eggs, but there’s nothing we can’t veganize these days. Case in point, you’ll never miss the cloying unctuousness of a chicken yolk when you can enjoy all the flavor instead.

  1. Aquafaba takes the role of egg whites, building up a stable foam that won’t dissipate once it hits the glass. Simultaneously, it acts as an emulsifier that keeps the whole mixture together, giving it body and a velvety texture to the very last sip.
  2. Instead of plain simple syrup made of equal parts sugar and water, a touch of nutritional yeast adds subtly savory flavor along with an alluring golden hue. Black salt, aka kala namak, contributes that telltale sulfurous aroma that makes everything instantly taste eggy.
  3. Distilled spirits, such as those called for here, are naturally or “accidentally” vegan by default. There are some odd outliers, but they would most likely call attention to that fact because it would be out of the ordinary.

Flip Variations

Anything that’s been around for a few centuries is bound to morph and adapt with changing tastes. As such, there’s already a long history of flip cocktail variations, including:

  • Sailor’s Flip, often using cheaper ale or beer instead of or in addition to liquor
  • Egg-Hot, which was an early zero-proof cocktail that skipped the spirits
  • Sleeper, using an aromatic blend of cloves, coriander, and lemon in lieu of nutmeg

More creative, modern interpretations bring a bit more fun and flavor to the party:

  • Chocolate Flip: Add a splash of vegan chocolate liqueur to make an adult version of hot cocoa.
  • Fiery Flip: Infuse your flip with a hint of chilies and/or ginger for a warming kick.
  • Red Eye Flip: Incorporate a shot of espresso to craft a bracing wake up call.

Nog Off, Flip On

Not every year can bring a blockbuster eggless nog to market. To fill that void, a veganized flip cocktail may be a better choice for welcoming in the Christmas spirit. Given its simplicity, versatility, and accessibility, the only thing you stand to lose is your sobriety.

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Who Glows There?

Tell the truth: Are you afraid of the dark?

It’s okay, you’re not alone… Although, you may wish you were…

Boo!

Glowing like an unearthly phantom in the night, this arresting fluorescence is in fact quite natural. Quinine, the key ingredient in tonic water, is responsible for creating this ghoulish aura. It may have a very faint glow in regular sunlight, but turns brightly, vividly blue when illuminated by ultraviolet (UV) light, AKA “black light.”

You could easily harness this black magic with any old glass of gin and tonic, but for Halloween, why not have a bit more fun with this party trick? Skull ice cube molds are a must for the full effect, if you ask me, but any silicone ice cube tray will work just fine.

Not a fan of the classic G&T?

You’ve got options! The only critical component is tonic water, leaving the accompanying spirits and flavors up for creative interpretation. Consider a few other effortless, tried-and-true variations on the theme:

  • Rum and tonic
  • Vodka tonic
  • Whiskey tonic
  • Aperol tonic

Hosting kids or non-drinkers?

If you want to share a festive drink that packs less of a punch, you can still have lots of fun without the booze. Swap the spirits for any fruit juice, soda, or zero-proof mixers for more flavorful, less intoxicating options.

How do you make a classic gin and tonic?

First mixed up in the mid-1800s to combat Malaria, the gin and tonic is a classic cocktail for good reason. Quinine is a genuinely therapeutic ingredient that can be used to effectively treat the ailment, while gin and a splash of lime helps the medicine go down, as they say. The basic ratio is as simple as they come:

  • 1:3 is the standard proportion, which translates to 2 ounces of gin for every 5-6 ounces of tonic water. Just don’t forget to add a touch of fresh lime juice, too!
  • Like everything else, it’s a matter of personal taste, so you may see some particularly strong mixes that use equal parts gin and tonic water.

How to make a Grim and Tonic for Halloween

Let’s not over-complicate things here; the “grim” and tonic is absolutely the same as a traditional G&T, but with frozen tonic water instead of plain ice cubes. This has the added benefit of not watering down the drink while still keeping it perfectly chilled and brilliantly refreshing. All it takes is one little trick to make this one hell of a devilish treat for celebrating All Hallows’ Eve with.

Spirited Discussion: Vegan Cocktails

No matter how many times the spirits are distilled, the world of cocktails remains as murky as ever. Labeling laws are lax compared to any other edible product available for purchase, allowing producers to omit all potential allergens, origins, methods, and co-packers. Broad assumptions can safely be made about the basics, but as soon as any flavors are invited to the party, all bets are off. It’s tough being vegan and enjoying a truly happy hour.

Even well-meaning bartenders often forget the little details, like fish-based Worcestershire sauce in bloody Mary mix, or honey syrup sweetening a gold rush. There are some common sense guidelines to follow for keeping spirits high, but the best advice I can give? Trying your best means making mistakes sometimes, especially if you’re already one or two drinks in. I know I’ve gotten it wrong, only to find out days or even weeks later. It sucks, but it doesn’t make you any less vegan, and if it’s not a matter of allergies, it won’t hurt you either. Live, learn, and raise a glass to all the straight-up imperfections along the way.

Alcohol Processing Pitfalls

Based on some of the bizarre ingredients chosen to filter various spirits, you’d think that producers were already drunk by the time they clocked into work. These antiquated, animal-based components include:

  • Gelatin – Best known for creating chewy gummy bears and bouncy marshmallows, it’s also used to filter some types of alcohol and remove sediment. Sadly, it comes from a much less whimsical place. We’re talking about the skin, tendons, and bones, primarily from cows and pigs. Kosher gelatin is no better, as it’s typically sourced from fish.
  • Casein – This cow’s milk protein can affect the brain like hard drugs, which explains why people can get legitimately hooked on cheese. This versatile ingredient also sneaks into adhesives, paints, and various industrial products. In booze, it’s another clarifying component that won’t show up on the final label.
  • Isinglass – Imagine, if you will, the dried bladders of various fish, including cod and sturgeon, in every glass. Yes, fish bladders are just what your cocktail needs for that extra special touch. For better or for worse, you won’t be able to taste or see it.

Common Cocktail Flavorings and Fillers

Creative mixology knows no bounds, which can sometimes become problematic for those with dietary or ethical concerns. When in doubt, always ask for specifics.

  • Cream and milk – When you’re craving a real treat, thick and luscious liqueurs can make you feel like you’re drinking melted ice cream. Not all bottles with “crème” on their labels are guilty of deriving their richness from dairy fats, but unless I can confirm otherwise, I personally would stay away. Even in the case of coconut cream, this plant-based milk is sometimes padded with unlisted, unnecessary dairy derivatives.
  • Eggs – There’s more than on way to crack an egg, and that’s part of the problem when ordering a vegan mixed drink. The classic example that comes to mind is the beloved eggnog. Egg whites are popular for creating foams and many types of “fizz” cocktails, adding a velvety texture instead of more harsh bubbles from seltzer or sparkling wine. Whether they use the whole egg or just the yolk, these cocktails should be off the menu for plant-based people.
  • Honey – Often billed as a more natural sweetener, honey comes at a steep environmental price. This is an easy fix, though: Just ask the bartender to either omit it to embrace a more sour/bitter/bracing taste, or swap it for simple syrup, made from sugar instead.

Best Bets For Safer Spirits

Next time you want to stock your home bar, stick to the essentials to ensure higher quality and cleaner flavor across the board. Look hard enough and you’ll find exceptions to every rule, but generally speaking and especially for top shelf options, these are always vegan-friendly spirits because they’re distilled, rather than filtered:

  • Vodka – Made from starches such as sorghum, corn, rice, rye or wheat, or potatoes
  • Bourbon and Whiskey – made from a mixture of corn and grains
  • Rum – Made from sugarcane
  • Gin and Schnapps – Made from grains, such as wheat or barley with added juniper and/or herbs for flavoring
  • Tequila – Made from agave cactus

Smart Choices Go Beyond Veganism

No matter what you raise a glass of, please remember to drink responsibly and know your limits. If you can appreciate the vegan virtues that go into crafting your favorite cocktails while savoring the moment with friends, so much the better.

New Old Fashioned

Drink Your Mushrooms?

Save your side eye for more questionable content; the idea of infusing mushrooms into drinks is nothing new. Add them to coffee or tea and call them nootropics, but at the end of the day, you’re staring down the same thing at the bottom of your glass. Though medicinal mushrooms are billed as a silent partner, contributing to your wellness cache without being outspoken about it, there’s no reason why bolder fungi can’t belly up to the bar.

Shiitake, The Original Flavor Enhancer

As we’ve discussed before, Sugimoto Shiitake are on a whole different level from the average spore. Rich with free glutamates that create an unmistakable savory flavor, it’s easy to leverage their inherent wealth of aroma and unique pungency to enhance any dish. The concept certainly doesn’t end when happy hour strikes.

When used properly, shiitake in any form elevates the subtle nuances in all the components that coalesce into a carefully curated, intentional eating or drinking experience. Like salt, it should never taste overtly salty (or mushroomy, in this case), but allow the other players to shine as their best, truest selves.

Why A Shiitake Cocktail Just Works

There’s real scientific evidence supporting the use of shiitake in mixology. To better understand why this pairing works, let’s break down the primary tasting notes:

  • Earthy
  • Woodsy
  • Oaky
  • Nutty
  • Leathery
  • Smoky

Remind you of anything else? Yes, whiskey is a match made in heaven for this umami infusion! That’s why my Umami Old Fashioned is a foolproof twist on the classic cocktail that will never let you down.

How To Make An Umami Old Fashioned

The classic old fashioned is one of the easiest cocktails you could pour. Just four ingredients stand between you and that first bold, bracing sip: whiskey, sugar, bitters, and orange peel. To add some extra umami into the equation, we need to factor in two more ingredients: dried shiitake and time.

  1. Begin by crumbling 1 large koshin shiitake cap into 2 ounces of bitters. Add 2 ounces of water, since the mushrooms will absorb some of that as they rehydrate. Cover and let sit for 24 hours in a dark, cool place. Strain out the shiitake pieces (which are brilliant in risottos or stews) and store the umami bitters in a bottle with a dropper.
  2. To make the cocktail itself, combine simple syrup and a few drops of umami bitters in a glass with 1 – 2 ice cubes. Simple syrup dissolves more easily than granulated sugar, and can be made with a simple ratio of 1 part sugar to 2 parts water. Simmer and then let cool in advance, storing it in a glass bottle at room temperature until ready to use.
  3. Add the whiskey and stir for about 30 seconds to combine. Pour into a clean glass with fresh ice. Twist a piece of orange peel over the top to release the essential oils before placing it in the glass.
  4. Completely optional, but if desired, garnish with a luxardo cherry; literally the cherry on top.

Better Bitters

Since a little bit goes a long way when we’re talking about bitters, even this small amount should last a good while. Don’t reserve your supply only for cocktails; it’s a rich flavoring agent for a wide range of cooking applications too. Consider incorporating it into:

  • Vinaigrette and other dressings
  • Pickles and preserves
  • Marinades
  • Soups and stews

Once you start sipping, you’ll never want to stock the bar without this secret ingredient again. Cheers, to a new fashioned Old Fashioned that can keep up with the times.

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