Tag: baking

It’s S’more Than A Feeling

Any kid that once went to summer camp will forever have a soft spot for s’mores. The very word conjures up memories of crackling campfires, star-studded nights, and the all-American treat. No one can forget the sweet, sticky mess of melted chocolate, dripping out from under the heat of a toasted (okay, burnt) marshmallow, barely holding itself together between two buckling graham crackers. Though a relatively new culinary innovation that we can thank the Girl Scouts for, both the flavor and ritual have become impossibly enmeshed in our collective psyche.

I’d be willing to bet that most people these days don’t go out and light a bonfire every time cravings strike. Gathering firewood, tending flames that are extinguished after a light breeze, and battling rogue mosquitos seems like a lot to ask for a simple snack.

No longer children, subjected to these character-building moments, we have the means and technology to improve that experience. S’mores cupcakes capture all the nostalgia and flavor of the classic campfire treat, but with the added bonus of staying safe and cozy indoors. By using aquafaba, the beloved chickpea brine that whips up like a dream, it’s easy to achieve the very same toasted marshmallow flavor in a frosting. Just char the edges with a kitchen torch after piping; it’s faster than wrestling with kindling, a whole lot less messy than campfire soot, and the flavor is every bit as incredible.

Instead of tromping outside into the wilderness, preheat your oven for this round. It’s time to turn your kitchen into a haven of warm, gooey childhood comfort food, minus the campfire fuss.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)1 Comment

Mango Memories

When is the right time for Mango Caramel Cheesecake Bars? I couldn’t begin to tell you; I’ve been hanging onto this recipe for a solid nine years and have yet to find that ideal window of opportunity. Naturally, I’ve long since forgotten why I made them in the first place or who I shared them with, but their memory remains. Like a ghost, barely visible in my mind’s eye, I can only faintly recall the rich, caramelized mango ribbon running through lightly sweetened cheesecake filling, a variation on the classic that’s both simple and stunning. It’s now or never, this recipe must go out.

Best Mango Cheesecake, Bar None

Destined for a fancy dinner party? Feeding friends at a casual potluck? They can be the star of the show or a graciously share the spotlight. The natural tart flavor of fresh mangoes works in concert with the tangy cream cheese filling, adding floral, tropical, and buttery notes when baked together harmoniously. Though decadent, they never feel heavy, thanks to the acidity of the fruit, complemented by the subtle taste of warm molasses.

Mango Caramel for Keeps

You don’t have to make the full dessert to enjoy this treat. Think of it like next level apple butter, slowly simmered until all the flavors and sugars are concentrated. It takes a while, but can also be made well in advance. The only danger with that is you may be tempted to spread it all on toast before preheating the oven.

Timeless Treats

My mistake was thinking that there was a just one season, or holiday, or mood for making such a treat. In reality, they’re always welcome at the table.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)2 Comments

Ideas in Phyllosophy

For a ready-made ingredient that’s widely found in mainstream markets, phyllo dough seems to produce a disproportionate amount of angst. Otherwise savvy bakers blanch at the idea of working with the delicate pastry sheets, and while it does take a gentle touch, most fears are largely overblown. It’s not as if they’ll shatter if you merely look at them wrong. The best way to overcome any phyllo anxiety is to dive right in with some exposure therapy, and I have a truly foolproof recipe to start you on the path to recovery. Portokalopita is meant to be broken in the first place.

A Break-Out Success

My original motivation for making portokalopita was to use up scraps of leftover phyllo dough from previous projects. Since I can’t possibly throw away perfectly good food, those random shards sat in the freezer for a good long time before being unearthed. Dried out beyond their ideally pliable state, there was no separating the sheet to make a flaky layered pastry. Instead, portokalopita encourages you to rip or crumble them all up, drop them into a baking pan, and smother them with a yogurt-based custard. Absolutely zero finesse is required, you can use up all your extra phyllo scraps, and there’s no way to mess it up.

Proof Of The Pudding

Thought often described as a cake, the texture is much denser and more moist, like a rich baked pudding. A heavy pour of olive oil creates body and substance, cut by the bright acidity of fresh citrus. My version skips the eggs, of course, and cuts the sugar and oil substantially. It’s traditional to make a separate orange syrup to pour on top, but a light drizzle of vegan honey does the trick for my taste buds. I would never claim my version to be remotely authentic, but I do confidently declare it to be delicious.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)5 Comments

Naan-Stop

In a battle royal of flatbreads, I’d put money on naan coming out on top. Plush, buttery, and lightly charred on the outside, this simple staple is now one of the most integral parts of Indian cuisine known around the world. Garlic naan eclipses all other variants for obvious reasons, but an incredibly diverse and largely unsung range of unique naan breads exist beyond those basics. There’s keema naan, cheese naan, and my latest obsession, kashmiri naan.

What Is Kashmiri Naan?

Kashmiri naan breaks the mold of its savory siblings. Masterfully blending elements both sweet and savory, no two bites are the same, nor would you want them to be. It starts with the same pillow-soft, chewy dough we all know and love, stuffing it to the brim with dried fruits and nuts. Bursts of tart, rich, toasted notes punctuate each morsel, creating an irresistible flavor and textural contrast.

Not one content to leave things well enough alone, I’d like to propose pushing that experience even further with an umami assist from Sugimoto Shiitake. Adding an aromatic, earthy quality that rounds out the full bouquet of seasonings, they simultaneously amplify the intensity of those tart cherries, caramel-like dates and raisins, and nutty cashews and almonds. Best of all, this approach helps prevent food waste, since it’s an excellent opportunity to make use of the stems.

Breads Rising From the Himalayas

Kashmiri naan’s history is as rich as its flavor. While the word “naan” itself comes from the Persian word for “bread,” the distinctive variation in the spotlight today flourishes in the Kashmir region, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. Kashmir, a land known for its abundance of fruits and nuts, naturally incorporated these treasures into its breads. This innovation not only offered a deeply gratifying culinary indulgence, but also provided a source of portable energy for the people traversing this mountainous terrain.

Choose Your Own Culinary Adventure

Feeling adventurous? Don’t be afraid to experiment with your Kashmiri naan! Here are some ideas to make this recipe your own.

  • Fruitful Swaps: Instead of cherries and raisins, try using dried apricots, cranberries, or currants instead.
  • Go Nuts: Any nut will do, really! That means pistachios and pine nuts of course, but also walnuts, pecans, or even Brazil nuts, too.
  • Spice it Up: Inject bolder flavor into the base with a pinch of cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, and/or cayenne mixed straight into the dough.
  • Always Umami: If you haven’t been saving up your shiitake stems, you can very happily use either Sugimoto donko or koshin caps as well.

Serving and Savoring

Kashmiri naan is incredibly versatile. It shines as a standalone treat, served warm for breakfast or snack, especially alongside a steaming cup of chai. Of course, just like your average naan, it also makes a fantastic accompaniment to curries, providing a sweet contrast to the savory spices. Personally, my favorite accompaniment is fiery sambal blended with a touch of vegan yogurt for a bold finishing touch.

While all naan is welcome on my table, Kashmiri naan is in the upper echelon of all yeast breads. The unconventional, incredibly compelling pairing of sweetness and umami, wrapped up in pan-fried, pillow-soft dough is impossible to top. For a taste sensation that’s both familiar and refreshingly different, look no further. Plain naan may need to step out of regular rotation for a while.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

All Washed Up

If there’s one thing I’d like to hire someone to help me with, it would be washing dishes. After shopping, prepping, cooking, styling, shooting, and editing, the last thing I want to do is stare down the towering pile of dirty pots, pans, and plates teetering dangerously in the sink. Energy flagging, I’m mentally done with the work already, and then this tedious chore blindsides me right when I start to wind down. Yes, it’s my mess to clean up, and yes, I will still throw a tantrum like a spoiled child asked to pick up their toys, no matter how old I get.

Washing Dishes Is The Pits

Between the grease, baked-on grime, and shredding dish sponge, it’s just a textural nightmare. Getting an actual dishwasher was the holy grail, the surefire fix for all these horrors, but the reality was an even greater let down. It turns out it functions best is as overflow storage, not even aiding with a pre-rinse assist.

There’s only one way to I know to take down this daily task…

Eat it! At least, when it’s a sponge cake, half the work is done before you ever bring your plate to the sink! I don’t think this is April fooling anyone, but I’m more about silly puns than outright pranks. For a gentle trompe l’oeil, much like last year’s ramen cake, the punchline still pays off in spades. If you’re with me, grab a fork and start cleaning up your act.

What’s In A “Sponge” Cake?

The “Brillo” scrub is made from a olive oil matcha struesel, admittedly thicker than the genuine article, but we can all agree the crumb topping is the best part. For that, I’m willing to take a hit on realism. Underneath, a tender golden cake enriched with turmeric and pumpkin puree shines with bright lemon flavor.

Washing dishes is still a pain, but having the right supplies at hand definitely sweetens the deal.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)4 Comments

Carrot and Stick

Like clockwork, as the weather warms and thoughts turn to garden parties, alfresco brunches, and spring celebrations, carrot cake is invariably waiting in the wings. Despite being one of the few omnipresent produce options all year round, they’re inextricably linked with spring. Maybe it’s the vibrant orange color of carrots that helps shake off the doldrums of winter, its perceived lightness and freshness to combat months of heavy stews, or simply the associations with Easter. Regardless, if you don’t have a solid carrot cake recipe in your repertoire, you’re liable to get left out in the cold.

Carrots’ Glow Up

Curiously, the traits that we prize most in carrots today were nonexistent in their earliest ancestors. Once a thin, spindly, and bitter white root, they bear almost no resemblance to the golden-hued, sweet vegetables we know today. Centuries of selective breeding transformed it into one of the world’s most popular edible plants across all cultures. Medieval European cooks first incorporated them in simple puddings that laid the groundwork for the evolution of carrot-based desserts. As refined sugar was a rare luxury, carrots provided a naturally sweet alternative for the everyday worker.

Icing On The Cake

Contrary to my photographic evidence (or lack thereof), I would never support sending out naked carrot cake. Especially when we’re talking about cupcakes, without any buttercream addition, those are simply muffins, no matter how you try to sell it. I just don’t see the need to reinvent the wheel, when so many marvelous frosting formulas are already available. My top recommendations, in order:

Building A Better Carrot Cake

There’s no lack of options for vegan carrot cake recipes out there, and yet I’d still like to throw my hat into the ring. What sets mine apart is the inclusion of finely ground almond flour, adding a satisfying density and subtly nutty flavor. That taste resonates with the generous addition of toasted pecans, which also introduce a toothsome textural contrast. To that end, I fully endorse raisins as well, for their chewy bites of concentrated sweetness. For staunch raisin-haters, I’d implore you to replace them with diced dried pineapple instead of outright omission.

Most importantly, there’s enough actual carrot content to live up to the name, not just a few token shreds for aesthetics. While this is solidly a dessert, not a health food nor full serving of vegetables, it should at least pay tribute to the supposed star of the show. Woven throughout the lightly spiced crumb, the taproot becomes tender and almost silky after baking, adding richness and moisture, just like the historical uses intended.

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Hannah (BitterSweet)3 Comments