Tarted Up Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potato casseroles, adorned with gooey toasted marshmallows, or sweet potato pie, gently wobbling atop a buttery crust, are classic staples of the American Thanksgiving feast. Gleaming orange beacons glowing amidst a sea of amber brown, their warm sunset hues adds a splash of color so desperately needed in this largely monochrome meal. There’s more than just the stereotypical orange yam to liven up your grand spread, though. In fact, there’s a whole rainbow of sweet potatoes that would love an invite, for dinner, dessert, or both.

Flipping Delicious

Tarte tatin flips the idea of conventional pastry on its head, so why not give it an extra twist to keep your taste buds spinning? Apples are synonymous with this French invention that dates back to the late 19th century, where legend has it that a distracted cook by the name of Stéphanie Tatin accidentally built their pie upside-down. Whether or not there’s any truth to the story of such an egregious blunder, there’s no doubt that the dessert itself has withstood the rest of time. Why should apples have all the fun, though? Sweet potatoes, full of natural sugar, caramelize against the heat of the metal pan, cooking to a soft, creamy texture to contrast against flaky puff pastry. One quick flip and you’ve got a whole table side performance to serve along with the final course. If you’re the type of family that likes their sweets alongside their savories, it’s an equally compelling addition to the main menu.

Shades Of Potatoes

Purple potatoes are no longer the shocking rarity they once were, but they can still be tricky to shop for. Many are simply labeled as “Japanese sweet potatoes” despite the fact that there are many varieties within that broad subcategory. Just because it has purple skin doesn’t mean it has purple flesh, so don’t be misled by exterior appearances. Seek out Purple Stokes, Okinawan, or Molokai sweet potatoes specifically for the best, most vibrant results. White sweet potatoes are no different, often surprising unsuspecting cooks with the shock of pale flesh lurking beneath the peel. Murasaki Sweet Potatoes, Hannah Yams, and Bonita are your best bets. Orange sweet potatoes are commonplace, but for tubers of distinction keep your eyes peeled for Garnet, Jewel, and Beauregard sweet potatoes.

Serving With Style

Glossy, glazed with rich caramel syrup, the paper thin spuds glisten as their soft edges catch the light. It seems like a shame to cover such a work of art with any sort of topping, and truly, there’s no need to. A thin slice feels much more substantial on the fork, with all the richness and body you need to complete feel wholly satiated. For those craving just one last flourish, whipped coconut cream or vanilla bean ice cream, delicately melting into the warm surface, will never steer you wrong. On the opposite side of the flavor spectrum, bitter dark chocolate sauce or crunchy cacao nibs could help take down the sweetness a few notches, as would a bracing cup of hot coffee on the side. To amplify the texture of the crispy puffed crust, sprinkle toasted pepitas, sliced almonds, or chopped pecans all over, which are perfectly paired with any other toppings, too.

More Taters, Less Haters

All sweet potatoes are beautiful, gnarled roots, pock-marked skins, and all. If you’re not fortunate enough to find a full rainbow of options at your disposal, don’t despair! Even if you chose just one color, be it the classic orange or jewel-toned purple sweet potato, your tarte tatin will provide a radiant vision of autumn’s bounty, condensed.

Think you’ve already covered the potato portion of the program this Thanksgiving? Dig a little deeper. Aesthetics aside, expanding your array of sweet potatoes adds that much more depth and nuance in the flavor department, unlocking a wide range of nutty, honeyed notes. Layered together in an effortlessly elegant overlapping spiral of poly-chromatic slices, the singular beige interior of your average apple can’t compete. Tarte tatin was meant to be so much colder and brighter; this is one simple yet stunning dessert that will always turn out.

Continue reading “Tarted Up Sweet Potatoes”

Oat Yeah

Once an undistinguished pantry staple, oats have seen one of the greatest glow-ups of our time. As we navigate an era increasingly focused on sustainable, whole foods, oats are not just for breakfast anymore—they’ve become a versatile building block for culinary creativity, essential throughout all meals.

Historically, oats have been a mainstay in the diets of various cultures for centuries. However, originally cultivated in the cooler climates of Europe, they were often deemed fit only for livestock. It wasn’t until the 18th century that oats began to find their place in human cuisine, with recipes ranging from hearty porridge to oatcakes. Fast forward to today, and these grains are celebrated not only for their rich, nutty flavor, but also for their nutritional prowess. In a forbidding landscape of food allergies and dietary restrictions, oats offer a safe haven for all to partake.

In addition to their health benefits, oats have sparked a wave of food innovations. There’s nothing they can’t do, from creamy risottos to decadent frozen desserts, showcasing their adaptability at every turn. Beyond the kitchen, the rise of oat milk has revolutionized the beverage industry, providing a creamy, dairy-free alternative that’s both eco-friendly and delicious. The fact that it’s now the default milk of choice in many coffee shops, even offered before dairy milk, speaks volumes.

There’s no such thing as having too many oats. Should you find yourself with a sizable stockpile, I have just the recipe (or 25) for you.

Continue reading “Oat Yeah”

The Tangled Webs We Weave

Did you know that the average person eats around eight spiders every year? This is a rough figure covering accidental consumption while sleeping, mind you, not taking into account cultures that relish their deep-fried tarantulas on a stick. Unsettling though that thought may be, I wonder if we could use some Halloween magic to make these statistics more palatable.

Tasty Transmogrification

What if we transformed those spiders into chocolate? Perhaps these arachnids could serve as surrogates to satisfy the spider-eating quota, or at least shift the balance. Daintily crawling across the delicate edible web baked into a soft, buttery cheesecake, this is a dessert that may haunt your dreams, but not your nightmares.

Enchanting All Five Senses

Perched atop a cocoa crust, the rich lemon cheesecake itself is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. Bright, tangy, yet subtle and understated, the delicate dance of citrus and tart pomegranate is enhanced by a gentle hint of ginger. Smooth and luxurious, melting in your mouth and leaving behind a refreshing, almost ethereal aftertaste, the interplay of flavors is like a symphony, each note perfectly in tune.

Creepy Crawly Cuisine

An ideal centerpiece for any Halloween gathering, this understated yet arresting dessert is sure to impress your guests. If the unique design isn’t a sufficient conversation starter, you can always drop that fun fact about sleep-eating spiders for greater effect.

Continue reading “The Tangled Webs We Weave”

Adventures In Bread

Can something without yeast or flour really be called bread? Though it sounds like a trick question, the answer is unequivocally yes. The Life-Changing Loaf of Bread by Sarah Britton lived up to its name for fervent fans while redefining what bread could be. Popularized about 10 years ago by one Josey Baker under the moniker of “Adventure Bread,” it’s little more than a cohesive slab of nuts, seeds, and oats. The ingredients read more like granola than bread, but I’m getting ahead of myself here.

Time-Honored Traditions

Adventure Bread is nothing new. Nutrient-rich bread crafted in this same spirit has been a staple in many cultures for centuries. Providing a long-lasting source of energy and nutrition, they were the lifeline for hardworking folks from all walks of life. One notable example is the traditional German Vollkornbrot, a whole grain rye bread that is dense and packed with seeds. Similarly, Scandinavian countries have their own versions of dense, seed-filled breads, such as rugbrød in Denmark. These breads were not only nutritious but also had a long shelf life, making them ideal for long journeys and outdoor activities.

No Gluten, No Problem

Modern dietary preferences are well-suited to such a hearty loaf, being naturally gluten-free and vegan. The secret ingredient here is psyllium husks, which naturally bind these otherwise disparate elements into a dense, sliceable, and toothsome treat. Found in the supplement aisle, they’re wildly high in fiber and create a thick gel when mixed with water, much like the flax and chia seeds also found in this mix. Together, they create the glue that transforms assorted pantry staples into a unified, golden brown bread.

World Bread Day 2024

In honor of the 19th annual World Bread Day, I wanted to embark on my own baking adventure and make this lovable loaf even easier. For anyone still nervous about trying their hand at homemade bread, this is the foolproof starter recipe for you. There’s no kneading, no rising, no resting, and only five ingredients (or seven, if you count water and salt). Instead of measuring out separate nuts, seeds, fruits, and oats, just grab a box of your favorite muesli and you’re halfway done.

Venture Forth and Eat Well

For best results, let your loaf cool completely before slicing thinly. As the name would imply, it’s an ideal snack to pack for your next adventure, whether you go hiking, traveling, or just head-first into a long day at work. More convenient than a bowl of cereal, healthier than a pastry, and far easier than homemade sourdough, everyone can join in on this small side quest. Don’t be afraid to venture off the beaten baking path.

Continue reading “Adventures In Bread”

Austin Takes The Cake

Cake is one of the most vital commodities we have as a modern society. Hallmarks of a truly advanced civilization include shared communication, complex division of labor, record keeping, advanced technologies, and an abundance of accessible, diverse sources for cake. Don’t bother checking your text books for that, it’s just a known fact. From ancient Egypt to medieval Europe, through the Industrial Revolution and today’s contemporary kitchen, cake has evolved with changing tastes and available ingredients, but remained a critical symbol of celebration, comfort, and creativity. After baking countless cakes myself, I wanted to let someone else take the wheel. Thankfully, local bakers here in Austin, TX have taken up the call to duty with aplomb.

Ground Rules: It’s No Cake Walk

Once a rare treat for the elite, truly anyone can have their cake and eat it, too. Flour and sugar is in ample supply, which means that there’s more cake than ever for all to enjoy. For the sake of fair evaluation, I need to lay down the law for what qualifies here.

  • It must come from a brick-and-mortar or regular popup, not a home business without a physical location. It breaks my heart to lay down the law because there are so many incredibly talented local bakers for hire, but this is all about the immediate gratification of getting cake whenever your heart desires.
  • Vegan options must always be available, not just a possibility for pre-orders. Some bakeries need advanced notice to make an eggless, dairy-free cake, and that’s okay, but a big bummer when I just want to pop in for something sweet.
  • Single serving cake is a must, whether that means cupcakes or slices. None of this all-or-nothing, whole cake only business. It’s not a pizza that you could reasonably take down in a day or two. My stomach hurts just thinking about all that buttercream.
  • Cheesecake doesn’t count. I know, this is a hot take that may stir up controversy, especially because “cake” is right there in the name, but I’m focusing only on flour-based, frosted cakes for this round. Sorry, cheesecake-lovers.
  • Mousse cakes are disqualified for the same reason as above.
  • No muffins, obviously. They may look like cupcakes but I can assure you, they are not. End of discussion.

Best Plant-Based Cakes In Austin

Cakes, like snowflakes, are unique and ephemeral. No two are exactly alike; here today, gone tomorrow, thrilling for the discovery of something new and heartbreaking for the loss of beloved favorites. Flavors are never static, changing more frequently than most standard menu items, so your mileage may vary when you visit. Venturing out with an open mind and a rampant sweet tooth, these talented local bakers won’t disappoint.

Unicorniverse – Redefining the entire category of vegan bakeries in the greater Austin area, Unicorniverse takes fine patisserie to greater heights than ever before. Styled after European cafes with delicate macarons, flaky croissants, and even high tea services on demand, this is the place to go for gourmet treats. Naturally, their cakes reach those same lofty heights, immaculately layered with housemade jams, curds, buttercreams, and ganache, with all the attention to detail you’d expect from high-end artisanal goods. I won’t even begin to list possible flavors you might encounter because it would be a never-ending catalog of temptations. Just go, select the first slice you see in the case, and don’t look back. If you’re anything like me, you’ll end up ordering all of them otherwise.

Zucchini Kill Bakery – We’ve advanced beyond the dark ages where “I can’t believe this is vegan!” was a common refrain after trying vegan cake, but the same isn’t always a given when it comes to gluten-free baked goods. Especially when both dietary restrictions come into play, it’s downright stunning to sink your teeth into fluffy, tender, and moist cake like this. Indulge nostalgic cravings for childhood snack cakes like Cream Coffin cakes (modeled after Twinkies) and Rebel Swrrrls (mini Swiss rolls in the style of Yodels), there’s also a plethora of grown up cupcake flavors, constantly changing with the seasons. S’mores, cookies and cream, triple chocolate, churro, carrot cake, and key lime are just a few cupcake options you might find waiting for you in this punk rock bakery. Now with three dedicated storefronts, their treats are also sold in many other cafes and restaurants across the city.

Fat Cats Organic Coffee & Desserts – Offering 100% plant-based treats, savory eats, coffee, and ice cream, the life of a fat cat is a good one indeed. Full size and mini cupcakes are perennial staples, with gluten-free options for most variants as well. Rich and moist, never dry, they’re baked fresh with organic ingredients and obvious attention to detail. With tender crumb and light whipped frosting that is perfectly balanced, not just sugary, you can’t go wrong with any flavor du jour.

Mr. Natural – Family-owned and operated since 1988, this old school vegetarian enclave has been serving plant-based Tex-Mex even before it was cool. The only thing more impressive than the savory specialties that will keep you well fed from morning to night is their extensive baking operation, which easily dwarfs many standalone operations. From Mexican sweet breads to American fudgy brownies, there’s an incredible range of sweets for every craving. The cakes, of course, are unparalleled. In fact, the Chocolate Tres Leches has won awards from mainstream media, for good reason. Additionally, you’ll find an assortment of cupcakes and cake slices in a rainbow of colors on any given day, with consideration given to gluten-free friends as well. On last visit, there were no less than a dozen cake options ready and waiting, so for anyone with decision paralysis, you might be here a while.

Thai Fresh – Thai cuisine isn’t typically associated with lofty tiered cakes and homey baked goods, but Thai Fresh is its own unique entity. After polishing off your panang curry, make sure you save space for their signature three-layer stacked slices that rotate regularly. Frequently features include crowd-pleasing German chocolate, carrot, funfetti, and coconut caramel cake, depending on the day. Everything is baked in a gluten-free kitchen and vegan selections are clearly labeled, ensuring both safety and satisfaction.

Bouldin Creek Cafe – Serving up the pastry stylings of Celeste’s Best for dessert, the lone Pumpkin Carrot Cake on the menu tastes homemade in the best way possible. Almost invisible shreds of carrot melt away into the moist, dense crumb, flecked with chopped walnuts and redolent of warm autumnal spices. Cream cheese frosting crowns each unassuming square, and while the cake itself would be delightful without it, that extra sweetness is ideal for balancing out with a bold cold brew coffee. It’s truly a timeless treat.

Captain Quack’s Coffeehouse, Lady Quack’s Cakery, Quack’s 43rd Street Bakery – Originally known as Captain Quackenbush’s Intergalactic Dessert Company & Espresso Cafe when it was first founded in 1983, this iconic Austin institution has sprouted into three locations dotting the city north to south, with at least slightly less wordy monikers. The desserts, however, are still a mouthful, with absolutely stellar muffins and cookies in full display. For vegan options, you can always rely on their Blueberry Lemon or Chocolate Ganache cupcakes. While the chocolate cake seems to get more attention, also frequently available by the slice and a full 10-inch round ready to go, the delicate fruity flavor of the former is a greater prize in my eyes. Covered with a dense plume of pale lilac buttercream, it has a gentle hint of sweet citrus, balanced and invigorating.

Cupprimo – Though the list of vegan flavors available for special orders is extensive, including pint-sized mini cupcakes that are perfect for kid’s parties or little cravings, the option for walk-in is limited to either chocolate or vanilla, depending on the day. Fortunately, focusing on just one plant-based flavor allows these bakers to consistently deliver on quality. Topped with pink vanilla frosting that I could have sworn had a hint of strawberry flavor, the spongey vanilla cake beneath has the ideal texture, both most and fluffy. For those who suffer from decision paralysis, it may be an added benefit that you can’t overthink this choice.

The Carillon – Put on your nice shoes and fix up your hair for this special occasion outing. The Carillon is a classy spot for elegant, upscale New American fare, tucked away inside the AT&T Hotel and Conference Center. Though not patently vegan-friendly, the chefs are happy to accommodate, especially with advanced notice. However, we’re not here to talk about what goes into a four-course meal. Walk-ins are welcomed during dinner hours, which is exactly when the illustrious Vegan Black Velvet Cake makes an appearance on the dessert menu. A surprising twist for an otherwise omnivorous establishment, pronounced thought, care, and energy went into such a composed plate. While menus shift seasonally, I’ve been assured that a vegan dessert will always be available.

Sugar Mama’s Bakeshop – Life is like a box of cupcakes; you never know what you’re going to get. This much is true at Sugar Mama’s, where you can rest assured you’ll get at least one vegan option for immediate gratification, sometimes two or three, in any number of possible flavor combinations. My personal favorites tend to involve cookies, such as the Cookie Monster or Cookies and Cream, but don’t be afraid to take a gamble with whatever is in store. If all else fails, their vegan cookies themselves are always excellent.

Sprinkles – Hope you like red velvet because that’s what you’re getting! Fortunately, this one isn’t an afterthought, standing up to scrutiny after many years on the menu of this national chain. Emblazoned with an edible “V” on top, this is the only vegan cupcake available at Sprinkles. True to the southern classic, it has a tender, moist crumb with a hint of cocoa flavor, topped by a fluffy tofu-based cream cheese frosting. As an added bonus, you can snag one for free on your birthday when you sign up for their loyalty program.

Suga’s Cakery – Speaking of red velvet, though technically out in Pflugerville, Suga’s Cakery is just barely outside of city limits, granting them an honorable mention. Their Southern Red Velvet is both vegan and gluten-free, with a surprising density and heft that gives it the staying power of a full meal. For my tastes, the vanilla is a bit lacking, bearing a distinctive rice flour flavor and gritty texture. As long as you’re seeing red when you hit the store, you’ll be a happy camper.

Selling Like Hot Cakes

cake-making is both an art and a science, especially when you take eggs and dairy out of the equation. With endless flavors, designs, and techniques, cakes are edible canvases for culinary creativity. Beyond the simple pleasures of good taste, they represent moments of joy, milestones, and happy memories. Whether it’s a classic chocolate cake, a delicate chiffon, or an extravagant wedding cake, each slice tells a story.

Bonkers For Sonkers

Of crisps, cobblers, crumbles, and pies, there’s a dizzying array of permutations, but none quite so badly snubbed as sonkers. Spellcheck thinks it’s a typo. Even the brown betty, buckle, grunt, slump, and pan dowdy get more respect. It’s no mystery why no one talks about sonkers in the same reverential tone, if at all: They’re ugly. The old fashioned sonker simply can’t compete in this visually-oriented age, which is a terrible shame for the heritage and flavor it puts at risk of going extinct.

What’s A Sonker?

There’s no official consensus on what absolutely defines a sonker, but in my eyes, it’s a soupy fruit dessert that’s topped with a baked pancake batter. Instead of pastry, biscuits, streusel, or breadcrumbs, you get a fluffy batter crowning berries, apples, stone fruit, or even sweet potatoes with enough liquid to call it a sauce. It can only be served with a spoon and must be placed in a bowl, unless you’re set on wearing your dessert, too.

Sonkers come from North Carolina, where they’re found almost exclusively. Legend has it that the name came about as a descriptor for how the topping tends to sink into the fruit, and over time, “sinker” turned into “sonker.” Some argue that it comes from the region’s Scottish settlers who believed the dessert topping looked like a grassy knoll, or a bundle of hay or straw, that could be used as a seat or saddle, AKA a sonker in the native dialect. Quite frankly, I’m not seeing it, but who am I to argue with historians?

Do The Dip

Nothing beats warm, juicy baked fruit with a scoop of ice cream melting on top. Or perhaps, some softly whipped cream slowly sinking into the surface? Well, sonkers get none of that frippery. Instead, the typical pairing is a milk dip. Don’t be fooled by the title because there’s no dipping involved. A milk dip is almost like an eggless crème anglaise, or a pourable pudding. A generous drizzle adds nothing to the visual appeal, and may in fact make it even less attractive, but trust me, you want to do the dip.

Sink Your Teeth Into This Sonker

Inspired by some canned pineapple and excess li hing, I knew what I had to do. As a symbol of southern hospitality, the pineapple was a perfect base to pay homage to its roots. Canned in its own juices, you get enough sweetness to dial the sugar way down, and plenty of flavorful liquid already built in. Using coconut milk for the dip is a natural extension of the tropical taste, bringing all the richness you need to finish a full pan with ease.

Though best shared with a group, be sure to warn others to perhaps put away their camera phones, and not to wear white if partaking. I won’t be held responsible for any errant drips and spills that may result.

Continue reading “Bonkers For Sonkers”