Tag: appetizer

All good recipes start with a story. This one is downright legendary, awash in myths and theories, becoming just a little bit more embellished with each retelling. Chicken 65 has enough allure without the fanfare, sticky red glaze gleaming as it catches the light, hugging the curves of each crispy morsel. Knowing where the name came from has zero impact on the dish which clearly speaks for itself, and yet it’s an obvious question that demands answers: Why 65?

Why is it called Chicken 65?

Was the chicken marinated for 65 days? Did the original dish include 65 pieces? Were there 65 chilies that went into that blisteringly spicy sauce? Maybe it was simply the item #65 on the menu for easy ordering? At this point, one could say it’s from the 65 different ways that people thought it came about!

Chicken 65 isn’t nearly as mysterious as the name might suggest. In fact, it’s well documented that it was invented by chefs at Buhari Hotel in 1965. Thus, the ’65 is merely paying homage to its date of birth. In case that very reasonable explanation disappoints you, don’t worry; this story is just getting started.

Hot enough to make you sweat on a brisk winter’s day, I’d equate it to the Indian version of Buffalo chicken. Though it packs a punch, the vivid red color imparts a more daunting appearance than punishing taste.

Given its great popularity over the years, chicken hasn’t been the only subject for this treatment. You can easily find shrimp 65, fish 65, mutton 65, paneer (cheese) 65, and gobi (cauliflower) 65 all across India. The next evolutionary step was obvious to me.

Why not try Mushroom 65?

The same treatment has been given to humble button mushrooms many times already, but I’d like to up the ante with shiitake. Far richer in umami flavor, denser for a firm, meaty bite, and without the bland watery texture of the average fungi, Sugimoto Shiitake, and particularly donko shiitake, are really the only ones up to the task. They straddle the line between the realms of plants and vegetables, giving the impression of a meaty morsel in a more earthy way. Besides, when everything can generally be said to “taste like chicken,” why bother the living birds in the first place?

Plunged into a heady marinade of vibrant spices immersed in a creamy yogurt base, the hydrated shiitake truly blossom to release their full umami potency. Absorbing that brilliant blend right into their core, each bite practically glows crimson after that luxurious bath. Still, there’s more flavor on the way to reinforce that solid foundation.

Lightly battered, fried to a crispy finish, and then tossed in even more tempered whole spices, the aromas are so heady that you can start to taste it before it even hits your tongue. One unique addition here is fresh curry leaves, which are sadly obscure in the US. Yes, there is in fact a curry plant, not just a mixture of spices or a dish called curry. It has an irreplaceable nuance that adds nutty, toasted notes with a hint of citrus, a hint of herbal yet floral flavor like Thai basil, with a tangy, tart finish. My best suggestion for a widely available alternative would be fresh bay leaves, but nothing can truly replace such a singular sensation.

If you like it hot, you’ll LOVE Mushroom 65. The key is starting with quality ingredients, as with any other carefully calibrated formula. Some can be adjusted, in the case of curry leaves, and heat can be dialed back for those with more meek palates, but one this is a non-negotiable: Sugimoto Shiitake are the only mushrooms for the job. One bite, and you’ll understand why.

Continue reading “65 Reasons to Love Mushroom 65” →

Culinary magic is the only way to explain how papadum are made. Ethereally thin and immaculately crisp, each fragment shatters upon impact like a flavor grenade straight to the tongue. Even after subsequent bites, palate fatigue never sets in because each piece is a little bit different, sparkling with both whole and ground spices embedded into the peaks and valleys formed by air bubbles while cooking. Calling them crackers or chips doesn’t do this classic Indian snack proper justice.

While plain versions do exist, the vast majority apply seasoning with a liberal hand. Why stop at just cumin and chili powder when you could further enhance your papad with umami? This is a job for Sugimoto shiitake powder, of course! It’s the ideal addition because it won’t clash or cover up other spices, but serves to further enhance their inherent flavors. That’s another kind of magic that seems fitting for such a captivating crisp.

What make papadum so special?

The basic ingredients that go into making papadum are spare, common, affordable pantry staples. Chickpea flour is the only non-negotiable in this recipe, although lentils, rice, and potato are traditional variants, so there’s certainly room for more experimentation. This legume base creates a delicate dough that’s not only high in protein, but also gluten-free.

It’s the technique that creates the alchemic transformation. After initially rehydrating the flour, the individual disks are dehydrated. At this stage, uncooked papads have such a low moisture content that they can keep for months in a cool, dry place. A quick and intense blast of heat brings them to life. This is the same principle at play for shrimp chips and chicharrones: the remaining water expands, stretching the dough and creating the fine matrix of bubbles just below the surface.

Tips for making perfect papadum:

1. Use a stand mixer to bring the dough together. It’s extremely thick and dry which makes it difficult to effectively mix by hand. Resist the temptation to add more water, which will quickly transform the malleable dough into a sticky paste.
2. Lightly oiled hands are much more effective at flattening the individual papad than a rolling pin. Just stretch somewhat like a pizza dough first before placing each one on a piece of parchment paper. Use your fingertips to gently press it out as thinly as possible. A rolling pin is much more likely to stick, tear, and generally make a mess. For the gadget lover: If you have a tortilla press or a pasta roller, those are other great alternatives for a more consistent, smooth surface.
3. Thickness, or more accurately thinness, is critical for success. Aim for about 1/16 of an inch thick; thinner than gingerbread cookies, thinner than western crackers, thinner than you think is really possible.
4. Dehydrate slowly and thoroughly. Traditionally, papad are simply left out in full sun for 2 – 3 days, but it’s important to control the drying rate accurately for long term storage. Excess moisture invites bacteria growth that will cause spoilage.

What’s the best way to cook papadum?

You have three options for that final step: Microwaving, air frying, and deep frying.

• Microwaving is the quickest, easiest, cleanest, and arguably healthiest. In a matter of seconds, papadum spring to life with no oil at all. It’s safe for kids (or particularly accident-prone adults) to use by themselves for an instantly gratifying snack. The downside is that not all microwaves are created equal, so it may take some trial and error to find the sweet spot for timing, power levels, and placement.
• Air frying is my personal favorite approach, reaping the textural benefits of dry, intense heat for quick cooking, with just a touch of added oil for a subtle extra depth of flavor. This sensation, the richness of fat, is known as kokumi in Japanese, which works in concert with the umami of the shiitake powder to create a more rounded, harmonious, and simply delicious experience.
• Deep frying or pan frying is most traditional, harnessing the firepower of hot oil to make the crispiest, crunchiest, and quite frankly the most addictive food around. It’s fantastic on special occasions, but I hate the mess and peril that comes hand-in-hand with setting a bubbling vat of edible napalm on the stove.

Once you start making papadum from scratch, it’s hard to go back to store-bought. Detonating with a calculated barrage of spices, each wafer-thin bombshell blows the competition out of the water.

Continue reading “Pop On Over for Papadum” →