BitterSweet

An Obsession with All Things Handmade and Home-Cooked

Around the World in 80 Plates: Chiang Mai, Thailand

26 Comments

From so many years ago, a blur of dazzling colors remains imprinted on my retinas, a full rainbow of garments and glittering jewelry reflected the fading sunlight, from each of the multitude of hawker stalls crowding the streets. Tidal waves of chatter, music, blaring car horns, all ebbed and flowed together, underscoring each scene with a certain frenetic energy. Sensory overload was the name of the game, with every last merchant competing fiercely to capture your undivided attention. Most memorable, however, was that oppressive heat. Covered by fabric tents and makeshift wooden plank ceilings, the sun was not the culprit- The humidity was unlike anything I had ever known. It felt as if the whole city was underwater, and we swam from place to place through the thick, hot air, much like the moist breath of a dragon, breathing down your neck. This was Bangkok, Thailand, my one and only experience with the country, and it was only a six-hour layover at that. If simply flitting about a nearby market left such an impression, I can only imagine what it would be like to explore deeper into the heart of the country. Thanks to my sweet culinary expedition, I can at least get a small taste, as we’re destined for Chiang Mai, Thailand today.

Thailand doesn’t have nearly the same sort of dessert culture as European countries, but that’s not to say that there’s not a sweet tooth to be found. Rather, sugary snacks are more common instead of an after dinner aperitif. A bounty of exotic fruits are always close at hand, so many of those more traditional treats put them to good use. In this case, it was the simple mango that captured my heart; a tender, tangy, and juicy topping to the rich coconut-infused sticky rice known as Khao Neeo Mamuang.

A tropical take on the rice pudding I already know and love, mango sticky rice is comfort food, straight and simple. Though something I’d gladly shovel down with gusto on a normal day, that wouldn’t quite cut it for this sweet challenge. Digging into my drawer of baking tricks, I found a long forgotten bottle of pandan extract and jumped at the opportunity to finally put it to use. Admittedly, because I can be nothing but brutally honest with you, my dear readers, this is a horrible representation of the flavor. I’ll be the first to say that I was not a fan. That artificial neon green is just part of the package, but it needn’t be so lurid with a fresher source. Next time, I would gladly go a different route and try making a more refreshing mint-flavored gelee instead, by steeping a big handful of fresh mint leaves in the water before setting it with agar. A green tint could always be added with a splash of spinach juice, if you really need the visual cue.

Although I really didn’t get a chance to experience true Thai culture, I’m looking forward to seeing it through the eyes of the chefs on Around the World in 80 Plates, coming up this Wednesday 10/9c on Bravo.

Mango Sticky Rice Parfaits

Pandan Gelee:

2 1/4 Cups Water
1/2 Cup Granulated Sugar
2 Teaspoons Agar Agar Powder
1 1/2 – 2 Teaspoons Pandan Extract

Coconut Sticky Rice:

1 1/2 Cups Uncooked Glutinous Rice
2 Cups Water
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
1 14-Ounce Can Full-Fat Coconut Milk
1/2 Cup Light Agave Nectar

Coconut Sauce:

2/3 Cup Full-Fat Coconut Milk
1 Tablespoon Light Agave Nectar
Pinch Salt
1 Tablespoon Cornstarch
1/2 Teaspoon Ground Ginger
1 Tablespoon Coconut Oil
1/2 Teaspoon Vanilla Extract

Sesame Brittle:

1 Cup Granulated Sugar
1/2 Cup Light Corn Syrup or Light Agave Nectar
1/4 Cup Water
1/3 Cup Toasted White Sesame Seeds
1 Tablespoon Black Sesame Seeds
1 Tablespoon Non-Dairy Margarine or Coconut Oil

Topping:

2 Ripe Mangos, Peeled and Diced Small

Begin with the gelee so it has time to set. Simply with the water, sugar, agar, and extract together in a medium saucepan until there are no lumps or clumps remaining, and set it over medium heat. Bring it up to a lively boil, whisking frequently as it comes up to temperature, and turn off the heat. Carefully pour the hot liquid mixture into the bottoms of 8 – 10 4-ounce glasses, distributing it evenly between them, to fill about a centimeter up the glass. To achieve the slanted gelee layer as photographed, lean the glasses between two stacks of heavy plates or books, like so:

Make sure that they’re securely wedged and not liable to roll around at all before proceeding. No matter what angle you set the gelee at, prepare the glasses in a place where they won’t be disturbed for at least an hour while the agar works its gelling magic. Let cool completely at room temperature until the gelee is firmly in place.

Meanwhile, you can prepare the sticky rice. Another easy affair; just combine the rice, water, and salt in a medium saucepan and set over moderate heat on the stove. Once the water comes up to a boil, reduce the heat all the way down to low, cover, and let cook for 15 – 20 minutes, until all of the liquid has been absorbed. If the pot threatens to bubble over, move it so that it’s only partially over the flame, and periodically rotate it so that all areas get direct heat at one point or another. Once cooked, mix in the coconut milk and agave, cover again, and let it cool and absorb those new flavors.

For the sauce, vigorously whisk together the coconut milk, agave, salt, cornstarch, and ginger in a small saucepan, being careful to beat out any clumps of starch. Set over medium-low heat, and whisk gently until the mixture comes up to a boil. Turn off the heat before adding the coconut oil and vanilla, stirring until the oil melts and is thoroughly incorporated. Cool to room temperature before chilling thoroughly.

Finally, for the last component that needs preparation, set a silpat or piece of parchment paper off to the side of your stove for easy access. Place the sugar, corn syrup or agave, and water in a medium saucepan (I hope you’ve been washing the same one out; this would make for a whole lot of pans in the sink by now!) over moderate heat, and stir just to moisten all of the dry sugar. Do not stir from this point forward, but gently swirl the pan periodically to keep things moving. Once the mixture comes to a boil and the sugar has dissolved, insert a candy thermometer and cook until it reaches between 290 – 300 degrees. Working quickly, remove the thermometer and dump in both types of sesame seeds along with the margarine or coconut oil. Grab your spatula again and stir until the seeds are well incorporated and the margarine/oil has melted. Pour the liquid sesame-sugar mix onto the center of your prepared silpat or parchment, and let it spread out naturally. Cool completely before snapping into pieces.

To finish the parfaits, spoon sticky rice into the gelee-lined glasses, almost up to the top. Drizzle 1 – 2 tablespoons of the coconut sauce over the top, and mound a generous scoop of diced mango over that. Chill thoroughly before serving, and crown each serving with a piece of sesame brittle right before digging in.

Serves 8 – 10

Printable Recipe

For participating in this competition, Bravo has compensated me for my time, but all recipes and opinions are solely my own.

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Author: Hannah Kaminsky

Author of My Sweet Vegan, Vegan Desserts, Vegan a la Mode, and Easy as Vegan Pie.

26 thoughts on “Around the World in 80 Plates: Chiang Mai, Thailand

  1. I like the idea with the pandan jelly. I first thought that was the glass itself, until I read your post!

    Perhaps use the actual panda leaves next time for better flavour? I haven’t really experimented with pandan leaves before although I have seen in stores – in the Netherlands, but I’m sure they can be bought somewhere in London as well. The smell of pandan is so lovely, Indonesian surely must have figured out a way to use it nicely.

    • I googled… just quickly. Always thought pandan was mostly an Indonesian thing, but seems it’s more widely spread in SE Asia and the Pacific. Anyhow, I found one pandan jelly recipe that adds in coconut milk, which tones down the poison green colour and makes it more pastel-like:

      http://www.seasaltwithfood.com/2010/05/pandan-jelly.html

    • Absolutely! I’ve never been able to get my hands on the fresh stuff, but I would be all over it if I ever get so lucky. I figured I may as well give the extract a try, since I already had it on hand, so I’m not surprised that it was pretty lackluster. I’d love to get a taste of pandan the way it’s meant to be. Thanks for that link to the coconut pandan jelly, that does sound like a wonderful dessert all on its own.

  2. Beautiful as always, and it makes me want to hop on a plane- either to Thailand or to your house for a snack- I can’t decide which :)

  3. WOW!! how beautiful!!! that jelly is such a gorgeous color of green — makes for a super interesting dish! thanks for sharing!

  4. What a beautiful dish!!! I hope to visit Thailand one day =D

  5. I have only tried pandan jelly treats a couple of time but I know it is delicious!
    Your dessert looks perfect and I hope I can try it my friend :)

    Cheers
    Choc Chip Uru

  6. those are some gorgeous shots! and a fantastic creation. i am loving the around the world series.
    and i got tvegnews in the mail! time to get baking.

  7. Amazing how a little think like slanting the jelly makes a dish so impressive!

  8. I’m pretty much addicted to all things thai food, especially where coconut, mango and sticky rice are concerned. I’m so enamored with this! (Even though I’m sorry the gelee didn’t quite turn out to your liking!)

  9. That first paragraph: perfection. I was right there with you, so beautifully written.

    And oh, what a shame! I have a whole bundle of pandan leaves in my fridge right now, which I would happily have given you!

  10. Around the world in 80 days has me excited to know where you are going next. Beautiful twist on mango sticky rice with your Pandan Gelee and sesame brittle. I can totally relate on the humidity thing. In Hong Kong today it is so humid that my hair is so big that the guy on the MTR was gagging for the 4 stops until I got off. Beyond Big hair! Beyond humid and sticky!

  11. Thailand has been high on my list of places to visit for so long! I bet this beautiful treat is the perfect thing to transport me there until I can actually go. Thanks for showing us how you make that beautiful slanted gelee layer — I was wondering how to do that!

  12. ooooh, I love this one!! There used to be a great travel blog, and she had featured the most amazing roadside snacks from thailand. One was a banana(peeled), wrapped in coconut sticky rice, wrapped in a banana leaf, and roasted over a fire. Honestly, ever since reading about that, I have wanted to go to Thailand. Mango Sticky Rice is one of my top favorites ever, and I love the idea of combining it with the pandan gelee. Very cool!

  13. Oh Hannah, I love this dessert, but have to admit that never seen one prepared so beautifully as this one that you have here…again, you are amazing, it is always so nice to visit you :)
    Thanks for this awesome recipe and hope you are having a wonderful week!

  14. Hannah you are so creative! These Around the World posts have been amazing. Keep ‘em coming…you inspire me!

  15. This is simply beautiful. It looks a little too intricate for me to try, but it is a work of art.
    By the way, I saw your cookie-cake in VegNews. That is a recipe I might have to try!

  16. I love both coconut sticky rice and mangoes, so this combination looks quite tempting! I recently made some coconut rice pudding using the blended-up meat and milk of a young coconut and brown sticky rice. Thanks for the details of how to make the sesame brittle. I’ve always liked the little sesame brittle sticks you can buy in Asian grocery stores even though they aren’t very fresh. The idea of making them myself appeals, though I seriously doubt mine would turn out as beautiful as yours.

  17. I super love the mango-sticky rice combo. I confess, it’s the first thing I shove down my throat everytime I visit Thailand. I ate more of them in Bangkok and mind you, it’s the main reason why my Thai travel is awesome!;)

  18. U are EXTREMELY AWESOME……I watched the whole episode of “Around the world in 80 plates” – Thailand episode. But u were not there. Why?????

  19. Wow, Hannah, I absolutely love your food presentation / decoration and photos. So colourful and vibrant. You’re absolutely in a league of your own.

  20. I never heard of this green thing, but from what I read I do not know if I would want some or not. I am always up to trying new foods and flavors, that is the best way to know if you like it or not after all.
    Besides from that, it sounds like it was good with coconut & mango, which is a great couple ! I like the tip for “how to make your gelee look like mine once in the glass”, that is always funny to see some behind the scenes pictures :)

  21. Pingback: Gratuitous Food Porn: Thai Food Edition |Foodbeast

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